Several years ago I had the great pleasure, during a practice day before the Portuguese Open, to play the Penha Longa course with the designer, Robert Trent Jones Jnr. I recall many of the things he said had influenced his design on this tract of land set next to a wonderful monastery and royal palace in the hills above Estoril, with the famous "penha longa" - large stone - as a prominent feature. He told me that he had elevated all the tees and greens as, because they needed constant watering in the heat of a Portuguese summer, the water had to drain off. Having elevated tees is good as it visually shortens the hole: the elevated greens also make you hit higher to land the ball and stop it quickly. It's difficult to run the ball in. There are some wonderful holes on this magnificent golf course, none more so than the long sixth, a par-5 downhill that could tempt you into going for the green if you really cream a drive. With the remains of an aqueduct behind the green and a lake guarding the front left it does get you thinking but if you don't want to risk it a safe par should be produced from this hole.

After your golf and a leisurely sauna take time to look at the magnificent monastery, built in 1517 though an earlier church had been established as far back as 1390. Much of this area was destroyed by a large earthquake in 1755 which flattened Lisbon. The Portuguese monarchs used the monastery as a summer palace in past centuries and a magnificent retreat it is too.

The second oldest golf course in the Estoril area is Estoril Golf Course, established here in 1945, though at another location for many years before that. It has a lovely old clubhouse, comfortable and reassuring where you might expect to find a pair of slippers by the fire and it is perhaps no surprise to learn that the Duke of Windsor, after his abdication and during the War when he was living in Lisbon, was a member at the club. It's a lovely golf course designed by Mackenzie Ross that could be in the Home Counties, gentle, tightish fairways, small greens and a course to suit the canny player rather than the big hitter, if you know what I mean. The front nine particularly is good, or rather the front eight as you then have to cross a bridge over the motorway and play the second half in a large, forested loop that keeps every hole discrete. The ninth used to be a par-3 that played from a very high tee across what, when it was first designed, was not much more than a country lane. As it's now a motorway you'll understand why they changed it! It would have been fun, though.

Up in the hills above Lisbon is a new course that has been laid out around what will be an impressively large residential village. Now I must admit I hate buggies on golf courses but there are some courses where the distances between green and tee make it imperative to ride. This is one such course. Its name is Belas (pronounced Bel-ash). The front nine in particular is testing in the extreme with not one easy hole. The second to sixth is perhaps the hardest run of holes I can remember. Two is a long raking par-5 that curves right for its 501 metre length and is named Augusta. Apart from the fact that it turns right rather than left, it could be the famous 13th at the home of the US Masters. A good tee-shot needs to be followed by a good long iron leaving you a mid-iron in to a green that is only five paces deep and protected by a stream. Pinpoint accuracy is vital. The back nine is slightly easier - no, make that less difficult. Reachable in regulation in most cases but you still can't afford to relax until after you have negotiated the superb finishing hole of 409 metres. A good tee-shot is required, blind from the tee, then you face a dilemma. Do you go for the green (over water) or lay up left and short and hope for a good pitch or chip? It's not index 2 for nothing. A handicap of ten here would rank about four anywhere else in the world. It's that tough. But you must play it. Take a buggy! And stay for lunch - it's worth it, particularly on days when the huge buffet is on.

From a new course to the oldest course on the Estoril coast, the magnificent Quinta da Marinha, with its famous hotel. Set in an established development of some imposing villas that are available to rent, but with a lively feel to it the Quinta da Marinha estate feels special immediately you drive in off the coast road. There is a tennis academy, horse-riding, lots of bicycles and joggers and everyone seems to be as sunny as the weather. The golf course, designed by the late Robert Trent Jones (his son designed Penha Longa) is in keeping with this relaxed, smiling atmosphere. It runs up and down, criss-crossing a lane through the estate, and opens easily with a wide par-5, followed by a very short par-3 and another par-five to a green just begging to be hit. Unusually it has six par-3s and five par-5s, with only two par-4s on the front nine. Several holes offer wonderful views of the Atlantic, none better than that coming down the 13th to a tiny green. That is followed by one the classic holes, a par-3 of just 145 metres off the back, but with a carry of 140 metres across a deep, rocky ravine. If you top it you will never find it. From other fairways you are looking north to the towering Sintra Mountains. A course that is easy to walk this is one to play over and over again. Tree-lined with a delicious aroma of pine and mimosa wafting in the gentle sea-breeze, this is golf as it should be played.

Then back from the oldest to the newest, Oitavos, which only opened in late 2002. The course has been designed by the US designer Arthur Hills, not a name known on this side of the Atlantic but one admired in the US for his environmentally-friendly design work. The course has been built with input from the Audubon Society - dedicated to improving the quality of our environment. The course is an excellent test, running north from the sea towards the mountains and then back again in an out-in track similar to St Andrews. The similarity doesn't end there as it also has a couple of interesting areas where a couple of fairways mingle into one - the Elysian Fields in the sun! The first four holes are relatively gentle, allowing the good golfer to get off to a reasonable start, but then the fifth will test the long hitters. The course turns at the furthest point north, which is also almost the furthest west in continental Europe, the imposing bulk of Cabo Da Roca jutting out to sea just a few miles off. On the home stretch the 14th will be a decider in many matches, a par-3 of 165 metres played over a sand ravine to a small green reached through a narrow entrance - a daunting shot. And a lovely couple of holes to finish, particularly the 18th which dog-legs gracefully left but then needs a high shot in from the right over trees. Not a cheap course but one I would gladly spend the rest of my life playing.

And after the golf you'll want to enjoy yourself. Estoril is a calm and upmarket resort with a huge Casino where the dinner and cabaret show are second to none and Cascais is the centre of activity with a lively town centre where there are plenty of restaurants. Or drive out along the coast road past Quinta da Marinha and look for the superb seafood restaurants right on the beach. With plenty of castles, monasteries and the superb town of Sintra just 30 minutes away there really is plenty to do in what is one of the loveliest corners of Europe. And with Lisbon only 30 minutes away (why not take the train in from Cascais as it runs along the beach for much of the way and avoids parking) there is something to do on every single day. Play golf early, spend the afternoon sightseeing and then enjoy a good meal in the evening overlooking the sea. Can you think of anything better?